Croke Park Cracker

History will be made this weekend in North Dublin's famous Croke Park. Croke is the high temple for Gaelic sports, principally Gaelic football and hurling (a very fast-paced mixture of field hockey and lacrosse ~ see www.gaa.ie). It is also the scene for one of the darkest days in modern Irish history.

During the late 19th century, Irish nationalists stirred republican sympathy and awareness in a movement called the Celtic Revival, breathing new life into a lost Celtic identity. Some of the most famous Irish authors, poets, and artists were products of this period. Revitalizing interest in Gaelic sports was another expression of this nationalist impulse, leading to the formation of the GAA ~ Gaelic Athletic Association. By the second decade of the 20th century, the GAA owned Croke Park, and Gaelic games were the only sports allowed on the field.

Early on November 21st, 1920, at the height of Ireland's war for independence from England, Irish republicans assassinated 14 British spies, soldiers, and Black and Tans, notorious police irregulars used to bully the Irish. Dublin police and British soldiers responded by marching onto the pitch at Croke Park before a scheduled match and firing into the crowd. 11 spectators and 1 player, Tipperary man Michael Hogan, were shot dead, and 2 more were trampled to death in the rush to escape the attack. The event is remembered today as Bloody Sunday. An English team has not been in Croke Park since.

Tomorrow, Saturday, 24 February 2007, England's and Ireland's rugby teams will face off in Croke Park! The traditional national stadium is under repairs and renovation right now, and is not available for this match. It was only just over a year ago that the GAA voted to allow a non-Gaelic sport to be played at Croke: the first game being a rugby match between Ireland and France a fortnight ago (Ireland lost). The teams are evenly matched, and both quite good, but the play is hardly a topic of conversation.

For many die-hard Gaels the very presence of Brits on the pitch is cause enough for boycotting (in fact, some Northern Ireland republicans plan on demonstrating outside the stadium). Even worse for these folks is the fact that the English national anthem is going to be played prior to the match. From a recent article on the AP:

"There is widespread disbelief over what is going to happen in Croke Park," said J.J. Barrett, a Gaelic footballer from the 1960s whose late father, Joe, was one of the sport's first superstars. Barrett withdrew his father's 23 sports and military medals from the Croke Park Museum in protest.

"The arrogant, war-mongering words of 'God Save the Queen' ringing out over Croke Park is surely pushing the boundaries of tolerance and common sense beyond what is expected in any republic on earth," Barrett said.

Heady stuff indeed. On the other side of opinion, however, is this chap:

"When our English neighbours are made warmly welcome next Saturday in such a splendid stadium in the capital of a mature and sovereign republic, the innocent Croke Park dead of November 21, 1920, will be honoured, not insulted," wrote historian John A. Murphy. "Who could take issue with all of this? Only some nationalist flat-earthers who like to wallow in vicarious victimhood."

And leave it to one of the Irish players to cut to the heart of the matter:

"We are not fighting for history. We are fighting to stay in the championship and beat England."

And Croke Park is widely recognized as one of the most exciting places to watch sports in all of Europe, having recently undergone an extensive remodelling. Here's to fine weather, good sport, political tolerance, and an Irish win! Up Ireland!