Jack and Noodles in Eire 3

The Copper Coast. A stretch of magnificent Irish coast that you've never heard of. Jack and Noodles have now. We drove to Dungarvan, about 30 miles west of here via the major road and then meandered back via the Copper Coast, all in County Waterford.

The Copper Coast is a UNESCO European Geopark, one of 17 designated Geoparks in Europe and is the only one in the Republic of Ireland. 20 miles of spectacular cliffs, deserted coves, and picturesque villages, the Copper Coast gets its name from the 19th Century copper mines that lie at its heart. Locals had known about the high grade copper veins for centuries, but the large scale exploitation of the reserves didn't begin until 1824. Fifty years later, the seams were played out and the mines closed. Some of the mining buildings are still visible at Tankardstown, where some of our Copper Coast photos were taken (for instance, this one or this one).

We also explored one of my most favorite hidden Ireland locations: Dunhill Castle. Or rather, the remains of Dunhill Castle. Dating back to the 16th century, it was demolished by Cromwell's forces in 1649 after a "spirited defense." That really is Cromwell's calling card, the blown up shell of a castle. Everywhere you go in the Irish countryside you can almost read the landscape in these old buildings: "Cromwell was here." The central vaulted ceiling of this castle survived the Lord Protector's onslaught, however, and is really something to see.

We finished our near perfect day at Jack Meade's Under the Bridge Pub, about 10 minutes from Villa Whittebaugh. Meade's dates to 1705 and is exactly what it sounds like, a country cottage pub under a bridge. We enjoyed our pints in the garden, basking in the late afternoon sun. Fantabulous.

PK then whipped up a new favourite recipe, lamb sherry soup and some of her delicious brown soda bread. Jack likey the bread.

The following day was much lower key. PK and Jack turned the living room into an internet cafe of sorts to start the day and then we explored Waterford City by foot. But first we went to a kebab take-away that we've been meaning to try for lunch. Of all things, they didn't have any doner kebab (a gyro-like sandwich that is emblematic of Turkish kebab). But the party was not spoilt: messy deliciousness ensued. We were all a little sick for our efforts. No noodles for Noodles, alas.

Waterford is blessed with a great deal of its medieval walls in tact. In fact, after the city withstood a siege by a pretender to the British crown, King Henry Tudor bestowed upon Waterford the motto: Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia, "Waterford remains the untaken city." Even Cromwell was repulsed in 1649. He came back a year later, however, with more men and more guns and finished the job.

The most impressive piece of the wall that stands today is Reginald's Tower, which we went into for the first time with Jack and Noodles. Reginald's real name was Regnall, a Viking lord and son of Ivor the Boneless, who had constructed a fortification there in the 10th century. The tower that stands today was built in the 12th century and expanded in the 15th century. Over the years it has served as defensive fortification, prison, and currency mint. The museum in it today was well done and really interesting; though we were glad to get back into the sun.

After a nap at home we headed back into town for the usual Thursday night with the lads at Downes'. PK and Noodles stayed only for a short while, while Jack and myself proceeded to drink way more than was strictly necessary. Especially given the facts that I was to go back to work and Jack to fly onto Venice the next morning. But some late night fried chicken steadied our stomachs and sure we were grand.

Their visit over too soon, it was time to part ways with Jack and Noodles. So after dropping me at work in our newly repaired car, PK delivered our visitors to the Waterford Regional Airport. We had a great time with them and look forward to seeing more of you here soon.

Slainte.